Monday Motivator: The Answer Isn’t Another Tube of Another Colour

“If you have twenty colours sitting next to you, every problem can appear to have the same solution: Reach for another tube.

Take those options away, and you have to become more inventive. You start paying much closer attention to value … to how much paint thickness can affect colour. … the surface underneath. …

Rather than asking, What colour is that object? You start asking, what does this area need in relation to everything around it?”

Will Kemp, “The Materials List Is the End of the Story“

It’s no secret that my favourite colour-mixing combination is orange and blue. That I enjoy the brightness of cadmium orange and the dark depths of Prussian blue. Mix them to create an array of browns and greys. Change the blue or orange pigment, and you change the results.

Amongst the new example pieces I’ve been painting for my workshop at Higham Hall later this month is a new favourite colours chart.

If you compare it to the old one below, which dates back easily half a dozen years, you’ll see a couple of additions and fewer blues.

Marion's paint colours

I do still have an assortment of blues to hand, but find I reach for Prussian or phthalo turquoise first.

There’s now diox purple, for dark shadows and interesting mixing/glazing with yellows. I also like it for covering unresolved paintings to reuse a canvas.

And there’s a red because I can’t get to a satisfactory red sandstone colour without it, so I need it for this coastline.

I do still prefer magenta for mixing rather than a red, because I find it leans into purples rather than my rapidly heading into browns. And I do enjoy magenta as a starting colour (coloured ground).

SOLD. Burn of Durn, Portsoy. 30x30cm.

I’ve also added Payne’s grey ink because I use it a lot now, though rarely as a mixing colour.

Portsoy: The Burn of Durn II, 42x30cm, acrylic on wood panel

Painting Step by Step: Deliberate “Happy Accidents”

A “happy accident” in a painting is something unplanned or unintended that gives a result we like or that is interesting to work with. But I don’t have to simply wait for one to happen: I can deliberately create the conditions in which happy accidents occur, increase the odds of something intriquing happening though never having control of the outcome.

Acrylic ink is one of my favourite mediums for doing this. To do a drawing and then spray it with water. The result depends on how much ink is on the surface, how much has dried, how much water is sprayed and how close to the ink I spray it. Bonus: it freaks people out who’ve not seen it done before because it gets messy.

Here’s a photo of my final painting, before I get into the layers in it. As you can see, even though a process may be chaotic and messy, the final result need not be overtly so. The reason for doing it is that it benefits me in the making of the painting, it’s exciting and challenging in a way that colouring in a line drawing can never be.

A Piece of Portsoy Harbour.
Mixed media on A2 watercolour paper. Sold.

My first step was to do a drawing in the ink.

I could have let it dry and then add colour, but I want something that’s wilder, so sprayed it with water. (Click on a video to see it full size.)

(Click on a video to see it full size.)

The result:

I placed paper towel over the result to lift off a bit of the excess inky water.

Then I scrunched up the inky paper and stamped across the surface.

The result:

What a delightful chaotic mess to work into. It’s hard to be patient waiting for it to dry, but any wet medium added will mix in and ruin the effect, whilst coloured pencil can tear the wet surface, so I usually work on something else.

I don’t stress if my drawing has dissolved as I can always refind and redraw it. Dealing with what has happened is part of the process. I enjoy responding to what’s there and nudging it in a direction.

Next I got out my watercolours and added a layer of “harbour wall colours”.

Once this had dried, I used opaque acrylic paint to draw in the rusty ring and chains. I also added some opaque colour to some of the harbour wall stones.

Next I added a layer of coloured pencil. It’s subtle in many places, you only notice it up close.

Next layer was oil pastel, both lights and darks. The watercolour paper I’m using has a slight texture to it, which breaks up the pastel line.

I went back and forth with coloured pencil and oil pastel until I got to this point.

After pondering it for a while, I decided the darks weren’t strong enough. Time for something dramatic rather than faffing about. So I poured ink over the whole thing and sprayed this with some water.

(Click on a video to see it full size.)

Relax, remember there’s a lot of oil pastel on the surface and the ink won’t stick to that.

I left it vertical, to drip-dry overnight.

The next morning I added some light orange oil pastel to the rings, and declared the painting finished.

A Piece of Portsoy Harbour.
Mixed media on A2 watercolour paper.

Drawing Portsoy Harbour: “How Much was Continuous Line?”

I’ve been talking to a friend who doesn’t (yet!) draw on location about continuous-line drawing as a way of tackling complicated subjects. How the technique lets you focus on looking at the subject and drawing, rather than interrupting yourself as you draw to measure proportions. When I showed them this drawing I did of Portsoy harbour, they asked: “How much of it was continuous line?”

The answer is: most of it isn’t continuous but I’ve used the same approach. Drawing with the “I think it’s about here so let me draw that bit” attitude on repeat, not stopping to measure or check proportions. If things go awry, or rather when, I live with it, sometimes redraw, or put something in that feels plausible for the drawing.

A lot of the harbour walls stones I drew with continuous line because it’s faster and easier than doing them individually. There are a lot of stones in the walls, and it soon gets tedious drawing them one by one. They’re set in various patterns in different walls and sections within a wall, and that’s what I aim to draw: lying vertically, horizontally, the section with squarer stones. Continuous line examples marked in green in this photo.

On the nearest pier I used vertical lines to indicate the concrete section. At the back sections I have repeated this mark even though I know these are stone and not concrete, but I simply didn’t have the patience to fill these with smaller stone-shaped marks. If I had, it possibly would feel too busy and detract from the other walls. If I use this drawing for a painting, I know what’s really there. If I hadn’t pointed it out, would you have noticed?

The purple shows an area of continuous line drawing, enough to indicate that this building has exposed stonework. The yellow is where I repositioned a line of edge of this building. The three straight red lines are a roof where the angles are very out of wack to one another. The zigzag red line is a building that is too short; it was the first thing I put it in this section and when I got to the path behind it I realised. I was likely too focused on its stepped gable to the detriment of its height.

The top right-hand corner of the drawing is blank because my pen ran out of ink.

I’m not aiming to do a perfectly proportioned piece in the time I spend with a drawing such as this. My goal is enjoying sitting outside and drawing. Looking at the jigsaw of elements in this location and bit by bit putting down lines to represent things. Every time I build courage in tackling this complex scene and every time I notice something I hadn’t before. This occasion it was the rocky outcrop that this side of this pier rests on (the stonework of the other side distracts my eye view as I walk along the road by white wall).

Slippage Between Representation and Abstraction

‘… the “slippage” between representation and abstraction … I photograph with the idea that what is in front of the lens is true, and I am interested in that “slippage” whereby compositional choices, framing, format, playing with the lights and darks and the contrasts can challenge our assumptions about reality.’

Sally Gall, “Sally Gall: What am I looking at?” by Leslie Wayne, on Two Coats of Paint

As a child I loved the game where you drew a square with a few lines inside it and had to guess what it was. Such as two parallel lines and a few dots was “a giraffe walking past an upstairs window”. Fast forward to the era of digital photography and being able to play with composition without having to consider the cost per photo, it’s no surprise I enjoy “what is it?” visual puzzles. That it’s real is crucial, because it’s about observation not manipulation, noticing what’s right there if only we see it.

Uig to Stornoway Ferry Trip: Abstracts chairs

It requires “slow looking”, zooming in on smaller sections of a scene. Taking a couple of steps to the side to notice how something looks from there.

I think still life is a route into training yourself to see beyond the object itself to the parts between and around. Set up half a dozen objects on a sheet of paper. Something with simple shapes such as bottles, mugs, bowls. Spend a little time drawing them as “normal”, as a group of objects, to get that out of your system. Now turn the sheet of paper the still life objects are sitting on a bit (so you’ve a different view of the increasingly familiar objects) and draw the negative space only, the areas between the objects. Spend 10 to 15 minutes. Don’t worry about getting the perspective perfect, this drawing isn’t about that.

Turn the still life setup again, and do another drawing of the negative space. If there are any strong shadows, put these in. Now fold the sheet of paper into quarters and tear it up. Look at each section individually.

Turn the still life setup again, and this time aim to draw small sections of shapes, lines, shadows on different sheets of paper. Zoom in, crop off extraneous parts before you draw.

The white is an eggshell.

The Difference an Oil Pastel Makes

One of my favourite ways to add light back into a mixed media painting is a light-coloured oil pastel. It sits strongly on top of everything and, as a mark making bonus, if the paper has a bit of texture, by tickling the surface with the oil pastel rather than pressing hard you get a broken dotty line.

The before photo:

The after photo:

It also works to add a broken dark line in a light area, as you can see in the blue where I have pulled a dark blue oil pastel across.

No, I can’t see the details of the rocky shore on the opposite side of the bay sitting at this picnic table. It’s a drawing about sitting in the sun, enjoying my materials (watercolour, coloured pencils, oil pastels), thinking about what the hillside will look like once the gorse is flowering, and memories of walking on that side of the bay looking at the rocks.

My New Favourite Art Thing: A Dip Fude Pen

I’ve been enjoying drawing on location with my fountain pen with a fude nib the past few weeks, rediscovering the variable line widths it makes thanks to its “bent” nib. A fountain pen necessitates water-soluble ink so it doesn’t clog up. This ink of course spreads if I add water to it, something that gives results I enjoy.

Waterbrush used to spread the ink to create the sea.

Yet sometimes I itch to add colour without the ink moving. Using permanent ink, such as my beloved Payne’s grey acrylic ink, would let me do this. I often draw with the ink bottle’s pipette, but it’s hard to control and in the colder, damper weather of a Scottish winter, heavier ink lines take too long to dry.

Then I was browsing around the temptation that is the website of Cult Pens, full of elegant bottles of ink (forget perfume bottles, ink’s prettier!), and discovered that Sailor produce a dip pen with a fude nib.

It doesn’t have a cap; instead the nib pulls out and you turn it around to store inside the handle. It’s got a reservoir that clips to the nib, so a dip holds plenty of ink.

Acrylic ink on A2 watercolour paper
Watercolour added to the boats, which are the pops of colour in this view.
In real life, the boats aren’t as far away as they seem in this photo.
A drawing from a previous day focusing on the old fishing net poles. Done with my fountain pen fude.

Monday Motivator: Connected Colour

Monday Motivator quote

“We are able to hear a single tone.

But we almost never (that is, without special devices) see a single color unconnected and unrelated to other colors.

Colors present themselves in continuous flux, contantly related to changing neighbors and changing conditions.”

Josef Albers, “Interaction of Color“, page 5

Stop worrying about getting one colour absolutely right and spending ages mixing it. That colour is going to look different when you put your next ‘absolutely right’ colour next to it anyway. So go with ‘more or less right’ and adjust once there are lots of colours in play. Interaction is the name of the game.

Plein-Air Sketching: A Bicycle Fence

This month’s plein-air meetup with Banff* Art Club was at a member’s home in their garden full of paintable possibilities with sculpture, sheds, classic cars, flowers, trees and, to my surprise and delight, a fence made of old bikes. Andrew explained that he used to get all sorts of donations because people knew he restored bikes and he decided to make a fence with the unusable ones, letting them rust back into nature.

I was chuffed I’d packed a concertina sketchbook on a whim because it’s a subject perfect for one. I started with a black fineliner, beginning at the left of the fence and my sketchbook, drawing along until I was at the last page.

I debated continuing on the other side, as there was still plenty of fence, but my fingers were itching to add some colour so I got out my watercolours and coloured pencils. It’s a drawing of my enjoyment of the fence, not worrying about getting “bike anatomy” accurate.


*That’s Banff, northeast Scotland, not Banff in Canada.

The White Wall at Portsoy (Part 2)

Walking down to sea level and around to the harbour the white sea wall keeps tantalising me with possibilities for paintings (see White Wall Part 1).

It’s been painted recently so it’s a glowing white line.

I miss those colourful rust stains though. I’ll have to watch and see how long they take to reappear.

Yesterday I had the patience to sit and sketch a couple of ideas.

A small achievement that I wish I could tell the in-house art critic about. He’d have listened as I tried to explain the what and why that aren’t yet clear to me, making encouraging noises. I told the studio cats instead; they made noises encouraging me to give them treats.

Fading with Time

Sennelier Nature all-natural pigments watercolour
Monday Motivator

“Knowing that foraged plant colours are short-lived, an artist would normally avoid using them in anything but ephemera. The last thing you want is to sell an art piece only for it to fade within months of being put up on a wall. But whether this evanescence should be considered a drawback or a quality, is a matter of perspective. Personally, it got me meditating on our expectations of artwork, the received wisdom that once finished it should never change. What if the work was intended to change with time? What if we accept that change and mortality are valuable aspects of reality? With a proper understanding of organic colours, I could work their fugitive quality into a piece, and insure that however much they fade, the work remains an art piece (as opposed to a piece that will deteriorate beyond repair…)

My first venture into this concept was my piece Loss.

Joumana Medlej, “Creating with the Land“

Joumana’s artworks “Loss” and “Blessings Everlasting“, where some colours fade through light and time whilst other elements* remain unchanged, captivate my heart and my imagination. The exploration of impermanence, the creation and knowledge of colours, the patience required for the cutting of the paper layers, words I can’t read. Designed to change, without controlling how or how fast it will.
(*the layers of cut paper, gold, mineral pigments)

As I try to adapt to life without the in-house art critic, I hope for some things to fade and for permanence of others. I find myself wondering where I put that watercolour set of Sennelier natural pigments that has fugitive (non-lightfast) colours; the fear that the colours would fade stopped me from using it , but now I see possibilities in this. Colours that change, fade, and last as a representation of memory, grief, life.

Sennelier Nature all-natural pigments watercolour
Seven of the Sennelier Nature all-natural watercolours